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Cacti and succulents are great easy care, low maintenance plants.
Cacti and succulents are undemanding plants to grow. Providing form, colour and texture, they add interest to difficult-to-fill hot, dry, sunny places in the garden. They are great easy care, low maintenance plants for patio pots and tubs, and are especially good for coastal gardens, as accent plants, or as ground cover.
Cacti and succulents are able to store water during wet periods and then draw on it in periods of drought. There are two main types – those that store water in their leaves and those that store water in their stems. Cacti are the largest family of succulents and store water in their stems. Succulents have thick fleshy leaves that store water. Some are coated in a waxy substance to reduce water loss and others are covered in spines to protect them from intense sunlight and drying winds, as well as browsing animals.
To be successful, succulents require good drainage and at least half a day of direct sun. Add fine gravel, sand or pumice to the soil before planting to improve drainage. Peat or compost does not need to be added to the soil before planting as succulents are prone to root disorders if the soil retains too much moisture. Most require protection from temperatures below 5 degrees Celsius – sempervivums and sedums are the hardiest and most cold tolerant succulents. In areas with heavy clay soils or prone to frost, grow plants in containers. Low growing succulents are ideal ground covers and will quickly cover a bank or retaining wall. They are ideal for dry areas, under overhanging eaves or poked into retaining walls.
Water regularly, but not excessively, during summer. Cacti and succulents require a resting period in winter when they do not require watering at all. For cacti, this resting period is especially important, as, if they do not get it, they will not flower. Avoid over-feeding – these plants are not gross feeders. Apply a dressing of Acticote in spring. A weak solution of a soluble fertiliser such as Thrive Flower and Fruit applied in summer is beneficial.
Mulching is not only unnecessary, but is detrimental to succulents. For aesthetic purposes, a fine layer of gravel, crushed shell or river stones can be placed over the soil surface – this will help deter slugs and snails.
If there isn’t a place in your garden for succulents, plant them in pots. Easy care, they stand a small amount of neglect and can be shifted around at whim.
When planting in containers, use a quality potting mix. Because cacti and succulents require good drainage, a 50/50 mix of potting mix/fine gravel or pumice is ideal. Water container grown plants once a week in spring and summer depending upon the weather, and intermittently in winter. In very cold, wet weather move pots to a more sheltered place to prevent root rot setting in.
Re-pot succulents in late winter/early spring. Avoid re-potting when in bud or flower. Wait until flowering has finished before re-potting. Allow the mix to dry out before re-potting. This will allow the roots to come away from the sides of the pot easily. Loosen the roots by tapping the pot or push a pencil through the hole in the base. When re-potting cacti, use thorn resistant gloves or a sheet of folded newspaper to hold the plant. Gently shake off loose potting mix, taking care not to disturb the roots too much. Plant into a pot one size up from the original pot. Large plants seldom need re-potting, but will need a side-dressing of Acticote each spring.
Slugs and snails love the soft juicy flesh. Control with Baysol or Blitzem. Mealy Bug appears as soft fluffy patches. Spray with Confidor. Wrinkling and softening flesh with little or no growth indicates a root disorder. Reduce watering, plant into containers, or improve drainage by raising beds and mixing sand, gravel or pumice into the soil.
What do you call a cactus that isn’t a cactus? Sometimes known as the candelabra plant, the crested euphorbia, or the crested elkhorn, the coral cactus is actually a melding of two succulent varieties. The grafted plant resembles an unusual coral, and depending on the variety, the edges of its crinkled leaves can be white, yellow, green, red or purple.
It can – very rarely – produce pink or purple flowers. Only older plants will flower, and many may never produce a bloom.
Though it may look like a stunning cactus, if treated as such, your crested cactus will be very unhappy. This Frankenstein’s monster of the plant world actually prefers a humid environment.
The coral cactus is comprised of two types of succulent from the Euphorbia genus – a surprisingly large family of over 2000 plant species.
The base is usually a Euphorbia neriifolia, a plant that resembles a cactus with wide, oval leaves. It’s chosen for its tendency to grow straight and tall. Euphorbia lactea – often the ‘Cristata’ variety – with its large, rippled, fan-like leaves is then grafted to the top.
Like many euphorbia species, both the base and crest of the coral cactus may have sharp spines that can cause irritation. Use caution when handling the plant to avoid injury.
The sap, or latex, of the coral cactus is toxic and can be very dangerous. The thick white sap may cause skin conditions if it is touched – it’s best to wear gloves and avoid the risk of dermatitis or other rashes or skin reactions. If ingested, the latex will cause nausea or vomiting. And if it gets in the eyes, it can irritate them or even cause temporary blindness.
It’s safest to only touch the plant when absolutely necessary, and you should wear gloves at all times for maximum protection. If you must pick up the plant, either use long tongs or hold the pot to avoid contact with the latex.
While most euphorbias are propagated by cuttings rather than seed, a coral cactus can only be creating by grafting. The process can be slightly complex. As mentioned above, you should wear gloves while grafting your plant.
You must begin by choosing a healthy young euphorbia neriifolia and eurphorbia lacteal – the younger plants generally take to grafting better than older, established plants. Try to choose plants that you feel would look right together.
Next, you’ll cut a V-shape into the base plant, removing its upper portion but leaving enough of the stem sides to support the crest. Then, cut the stem of the lactea in an arrowhead shape so that it fits snugly into the neriifolia stem. Any gaps between the two plants will allow the latex to leak out and might result in the formation of fungal rots.
Once the two plants are tightly fitted together, use grafting wax to cover the join, ensuring they remain sealed and clean. Use twine to reinforce the grafted joint. It will take at least 2-3 weeks for the plants to fuse together, but don’t be concerned if it takes longer.
After 3 weeks, it’s time to remove the twine and wax to inspect the joint. If it doesn’t appear to have fully fused, apply fresh wax and retie the twine in place. After another 3 weeks, check the plant again.
This mishmash of euphorbia plants requires particular care. In zones 10-11, it can remain outdoors year-round, but should spend the cooler months indoors in any other region. It can be grown indoors as well.
Coral cactus prefers a cactus potting soil or any other gritty soil that provides good drainage. You can mix a bit of organic matter into the planting hole for added nutrition, though it’s not strictly necessary. Euphorbia can tolerate changes to the soil pH; they will do well in either slightly alkaline or slightly acidic soil.
Storebought grafted plants may have been mulched with gravel which is glued together to help support the plant during transit. The layer of gravel will not harm the plant, but may make it difficult to determine if the soil is dry and the plant needs watering.
During the spring and summer, the cactus should be fertilized regularly using a 10-10-10 liquid fertilizer at ¼ strength every couple of weeks at most. In especially rich soils, even less fertilizer is required. The plant doesn’t require any extra nutrition in the fall or winter.
New plants should be started in partial shade conditions and can be moved gradually to full sun. In hot regions, the plant should be partially shaded during the heat of the day to avoid sun damage.
If grown indoors, the plant should be placed in a window with 3-5 hours of bright sunlight daily. As the crest will grow toward the sun, you should turn the pot regularly to prevent the cactus from growing lopsided.
Like most succulents, the coral cactus will only thrive in warm temperatures of at least 10°C and preferably above 15 °C – if your outdoor temperatures dip below this, bring your plant indoors. Frost or freezing will damage the fragile tissues of the coral cactus and most likely kill it.
Contrary to most succulents and cacti, the coral cactus doesn’t tolerate drought conditions – though it does prefer drier soil. Soggy soil may cause problems like root rot.
A good rule of thumb is to water when the top 5-10 cm of the soil seems dry. Do not water the plant directly, but instead water the soil until it runs out of the pot base. A droopy or wilted coral cactus is probably under-watered.
The coral cactus will need more frequent watering during its active growth period in the spring and summer months. You can reduce the frequency of water during the fall and winter.
Coral cactus also enjoys humid environments such as greenhouses – provided there is good airflow. If growing coral cactus indoors, watch for signs of powdery mildew.
These plants are rather hardy and not susceptible to many issues.
The grafted coral cactus can rarely be subject to reverting – the rootstock may try to develop as usual, resulting in a secondary stem of neriifolia next to the lactea crown. If this happens, you can either leave it – creating an even more unusual plant, or remove it carefully near the crest and allow the latex to scab over the cut portion.
Though the latex is a good deterrent to most pest, mealybugs and other scale insects may still appear on coral cactus. Use a cotton swab dipped in slightly diluted rubbing alcohol to remove them.
Spider mites may also affect coral cactus. Because insecticidal soaps can harm the plant, use a firm spray of water to remove the spider mites and their eggs, then allow the plant to dry thoroughly. Heavily diluted neem oil can also be effective for removing spider mites.
In humid environments with limited airflow, powdery mildew may develop – this disease is best prevented as many of its treatments will harm the coral cactus’s leaves. If mildew appears, the plant surface can be treated with a solution of baking soda (15 mL) in water (4L).
If the soil is too wet, the plant may develop root rot – use a cactus potting mix and water only when necessary to avoid root rot. Once the coral cactus begins to show damage, it’s usually too late to save it from root rot.
Fungal rots can also develop during the grafting process, or on the leaves of a plant that has been exposed to cold. This usually presents as browned and mushy parts on the leaves which may be pruned away.
Growing a coral cactus is an experience unlike any other – both challenging and beautiful!
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Fantastic wonderful website & shop for plant clippings..its so helpful.. and a added new concept of using chop sticks for planting technique..
Such a variety of plants in these categories, I have but two, one I bought a few weeks ago and another succulent I had as a small leaflet when I ordered cuttings of the Chinese money plant. I loved the displays in the logs, very natural and imaginative
I have several cacti with very exotic blooms one cream and very fragrant and one a brilliant orange, I've always been unsure of the names of this plant.
I have so many cacti, and I too have the one you share here yes its fragrance is divine a real delight but for just one or two nights and then the flower withers & dies, so it must be pollinated by moths, I love the pot you have yours in I'm a huge pottery fan & collector of all kinds of pottery..
Now I was told I had it planted incorrectly but its growing all the same...But its a 'ZigZag' cacti aka Fishbone and its native to Central and South America, where it grows in tropical rainforests. In its natural habitat, this plant does not grow in the ground—it grows at the top of the rainforest trees, and grows aerial roots to latch on to the tree and spread farther along the branches.
It was first discovered by botanist Adrian Hardy Haworth in 1829 who named it Epiphyllum anguliger. In recent years, the cactus has gained popularity as a houseplant due to its unique shape and relatively easy maintenance, and the beautiful blooms it produces is a huge bonus!
and it comes in a few colours too..l love this apricot variety..
Heres My one..
Heres some more of mine...
My small Titanopsis hugo-schlechteri succulent flowered for the first time today...
And I have a new Heurnia zebrina magniflora cactus too,it has a few flower heads on it,so will wait if they come out.. I'm really enjoying my cacti & succulent collection its growing fast...will update as more come my way..the word is out around work now with work mates asking friends for clippings and divided plants for me lol..love it!..
Astrophytum
Gymnocalyclium
A few more additions to my succulent & Cacti collection, its getting added to often now that my clients know I'm collecting.. they are even sussing clippings for me from friends, how cool is that and a good way for it to grow fast, I have a table full now, so I will have to stop soon LOL..I cant believe just how many wonderful variety of succulents & cacti there actually is..and I havnt even touched the surface with the ones I have..there is a place up in Auckland that used to be in the Coromandel Peninsula that cultivates exotic cacti and succulents... they have some amazing specimens, but I couldnt afford any of them though...its called 'Desert Maniacs' on Trademe, they have even won Gold at competitions with some of their exotic cacti at the Ellislie Flower Show.. see link below ..
Baby Slim leafed alligator - Mother of Millions - Bryophyllum daigremontianum
String of pearls
I've been busy outside today in the sunshine after a frosty morning.. potting up some more plants,some small cactus & succulents given to me yesterday by a client.. I've re-potted them..my collection has grown now from a few cuttings a few months back to a table full now and I'm propagating them too, I've only lost one cactus cutting,[I think it was just too young taken off the mother plant,I should have waited till it was larger..] but also I'm taking clippings and laying them on potting mix to grow, so I can give some I have to those who dont have them, its cool fun and so easy to do..a kid could grow these things..they dont need much care..I'm watching tiny cactus grow in weeks..and succulents thrive all just with a little seaweed mix in their water,that's it..
Cresting Clavifolia
Tiger Aloe - Genialoa veriegata & Mesembryanthemum & Lemon tears
White Ghost - Variegated Corn Cob Cactus Euphorbia mammillaris
& Golden Barrel [foreground]
Jelly bean succulent with Baby String of Buttons -Crassula Perforata
[Green pot background] Sempervivum arachnoideum, commonly known as Cobweb Houseleek
I'd love one of these below,but it would cost a fortune here..
Gymnocalycium mihanovichii f. rubra
I have to share these video's of it, its such an amazing place visually speaking....
some more of my succulents
Tiger strip succulent.. Haworthias are dainty succulent plants which are frequently compared to Aloes, this is hardly surprising since they are both members of the Asphodeloideae family. Haworthias are almost always small and very (very) slow growing plants but tend to look brilliant in unusual containers or interesting soil mixes. As a result they can make fantastic easy care gifts and presents for people, suiting either a home or office desk environment.
'Medusa head' succulent..
(Black Hens and Chicks) - This succulent plant produces clumps of short rosettes up to 3 inches wide with thin dark triangular, blackish leaves.
These leaves first emerge greenish but darken to a deep lavender brown and with age the lower leaves widen out to as much as 1 inch at the base with an acuminate tip that has fine yellow edges. In late fall to early winter appear the dark red flowers on short stalks.
Andromischus Cooperi succulent :-
This will be a interesting one as I've never seen one before, its only a clipping so hasn't rooted properly yet..so will watch it get a little bigger before I put it in a nice pottery pot..
I enjoyed seeing how you'd displayed your plants...the ZigZag cacti of mine is in a wall fall container, I used to have the water flowing through it but then decided that the cacti needed some where to overflow, seems to suit them in smallish pots in the conservatory
Oh a wall fall container, is that cos its elongated & tall?.. I like it though cos it looks like real rocks like those Scottish octagonal pillar stones you find at the Giants causeway. The fish bone[zig zag] can loose its shape in some specimens, I saw one a while back at a clients house that had totally lost its waviness, but it was the same plant.
"Waterfall" container - guess its a Ning spelling thing again, yes loved that too when I saw it in the shop Vlada
Oh so its not for the wall vase? so a water feature like does it have water coming out of it, in a waterfall motion flowing down it with a plug in water pump?..
The pump is still inside at the back, yes a plug in one, not sure whether it still works, and yes from water chamber to water chamber, it was good to look at and a nice sound but very hard to clean out...I think a very big spider lives inside since I started using it as a planter Vlada.
Ahh yes now I'm with you I have a water feature myself and your right they calcify real fast and become slimy and hard to clean.. mine had a rack of tiers with stones on them and a copper pipe bent like a tap where the water comes out of, the stones all turned white and it looked shocking.. sad really, but I've kept it in the hope I will find some product to decalcify it all..
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A single thought...a mere whisper, ...... barely upon a breeze that catches a spark... all is tinder before the firestorm... and yet.
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Freedom and change starts within:
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